It seems clear to me that I am headed for a chain failure and would like to get a stronger chain. How do I determine what I can use with my microSHIFT Advent X Pro, 11-48, 10-speed drive train?
On my recumbent trike I have a Toseven DM01 with a 46T chain ring driving a 406 (20") rear wheel with a Rohloff Speedhub (14 speed internal geared hub). The Rohloff spec for chain is 1/2" x 3/32" (basically 7 & 8 speed chain) and I use KMC Z8.3 ($13.00) and a recumbent trike requires that you connect three chains together and cut the assembled chain to length (I refer to the Park Tool site article on chain sizing to determine the length). I ride around 200 miles per week and once a week I use a chain wear indicating tool to check my chain for wear to determine when to replace it (normally 1500 - 2000 miles of use). You have to remember that using a chain which has passed the point where it should be replaced will accelerate the wear of other drivetrain components (i.e. cogs, idlers/jockey wheels, and chainrings). Using this approach has let me use the same cog on my Rohloff for a little over 20,000 miles when the cog had been worn enough to allow chain skipping, with the Rohloff you can remove the cog and flip it over and now use the other side of the cogs teeth unlike a bike/trike with a derailleur where you would have to replace the worn cog or cassette.
In my opinion the use of a "E-bike" specific chain is not that important if using a reputable brand and not something from the internet with a manufacturer you have never heard of. In most case the actual size of the chain used will be determined by the number of speeds on your rear cassette and remember that a 9 speed chain will be the same physical size weather it is marketed as E-bike specific or normal use (applies to other speed chains also) and probably has no difference between the two. An example of this is back in the early days of PC's when the prescribed medium was a floppy disk (magnetic medium inside a flat holder of some type. The manufacturer would build their disk to one specification and run it through testing. If it passed testing it would be marketed as a double density disk (twice the storage area) and if it failed it was marketed as a single density disk. The thing was that physically they looked the same except that the double density unit had an extra notch or hole in its holder which the hardware in the computer would use to recognize how much data the disk could hold. Some enterprising tech discovered that if you had a punch which would put the extra hole or tab in the holder that about 98% of the time the computer would be able to use the medium as a double density disk saving the cost difference between the two disks. Same thing applies to many items today, built on the same production line and testing determines what is sold as resulting in the lower priced unit having the same configuration as the higher priced one but failed the testing requirement. I'll take the lower priced one when the difference is $25 per chain and I'm looking at three of them and so far I believe that I'm right and won't get that much additional miles out of the "E-Bike" chain to warrant spending the extra money.
Sad to see the number of spam posts here. In my experience with the BBS02 (commuting with PAS, limited throttle), a standard SRAM chain (not e-bike rated) has held up for ~1,000 miles at a time. Don't sweat breaking a chain too much. Highly, highly recommend keeping a spare chain with you on your rides so a breakage doesn't have you stranded.
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On my recumbent trike I have a Toseven DM01 with a 46T chain ring driving a 406 (20") rear wheel with a Rohloff Speedhub (14 speed internal geared hub). The Rohloff spec for chain is 1/2" x 3/32" (basically 7 & 8 speed chain) and I use KMC Z8.3 ($13.00) and a recumbent trike requires that you connect three chains together and cut the assembled chain to length (I refer to the Park Tool site article on chain sizing to determine the length). I ride around 200 miles per week and once a week I use a chain wear indicating tool to check my chain for wear to determine when to replace it (normally 1500 - 2000 miles of use). You have to remember that using a chain which has passed the point where it should be replaced will accelerate the wear of other drivetrain components (i.e. cogs, idlers/jockey wheels, and chainrings). Using this approach has let me use the same cog on my Rohloff for a little over 20,000 miles when the cog had been worn enough to allow chain skipping, with the Rohloff you can remove the cog and flip it over and now use the other side of the cogs teeth unlike a bike/trike with a derailleur where you would have to replace the worn cog or cassette.
In my opinion the use of a "E-bike" specific chain is not that important if using a reputable brand and not something from the internet with a manufacturer you have never heard of. In most case the actual size of the chain used will be determined by the number of speeds on your rear cassette and remember that a 9 speed chain will be the same physical size weather it is marketed as E-bike specific or normal use (applies to other speed chains also) and probably has no difference between the two. An example of this is back in the early days of PC's when the prescribed medium was a floppy disk (magnetic medium inside a flat holder of some type. The manufacturer would build their disk to one specification and run it through testing. If it passed testing it would be marketed as a double density disk (twice the storage area) and if it failed it was marketed as a single density disk. The thing was that physically they looked the same except that the double density unit had an extra notch or hole in its holder which the hardware in the computer would use to recognize how much data the disk could hold. Some enterprising tech discovered that if you had a punch which would put the extra hole or tab in the holder that about 98% of the time the computer would be able to use the medium as a double density disk saving the cost difference between the two disks. Same thing applies to many items today, built on the same production line and testing determines what is sold as resulting in the lower priced unit having the same configuration as the higher priced one but failed the testing requirement. I'll take the lower priced one when the difference is $25 per chain and I'm looking at three of them and so far I believe that I'm right and won't get that much additional miles out of the "E-Bike" chain to warrant spending the extra money.
Sad to see the number of spam posts here. In my experience with the BBS02 (commuting with PAS, limited throttle), a standard SRAM chain (not e-bike rated) has held up for ~1,000 miles at a time. Don't sweat breaking a chain too much. Highly, highly recommend keeping a spare chain with you on your rides so a breakage doesn't have you stranded.
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