Not sure why you went under the fork, if you bottom out wont it hit pinch or disconnect the wires? I got some cable ties, put them on loosely before cutting them off to figure out where everything was going, then I did my final tape.
Ok.. I launch today.. Finished my Trek Marlin 7 Bafang BDD02 750W 48V Ebike build. Many thanks to Johnny and his expert advise on youtube AND this forum! I could not have done it without you! a couple things to note.. Cable management was mainly done by wrapping and stuffing up the front fork tube after silicon taping. I went with a Lekkie 36T chain ring which was the same that came off so I could use the same length chain Plus it gave me the proper clearance from my frame!! I am posting some pictures and will get back with the results of my first run!! yeeehaaaa
I went with a few small zip ties. The smaller ones are barely noticeable and hold the cables together if placed well. I used trial and error and went through quite a few on the install but the majority ended up on the floor as I wanted as few as practicable on the bike.
They must have downgraded it for 2022, I put on a 4 piston front caliper on the front too, you can always go up with the rotor 180 to 203 if you think you need more brakes. I go at such high speeds I just feel better with more brake, the rear is fine most braking power is not in the rear. I have pictures under my Trek Conversion post
You can ride your bike in the meantime until your levers come in, the cut off is unnecessary just tie down the plug wires and tape off the ends until the parts come in.
I would highly recommend getting a 203 front Disc there is not enough stopping power with the current rotor, for this e-bike. $10 Shimano Bracket and $35 rotor if you get a Magura, Shimano is out of rotors for the foreseeable future, and Magura is a respected brand.
Great - I see there are 2 dimples in the chain stay. Is the rearmost one a ding or is it original? I ask because it looks the same on my bike but mine has scratches on it and so I thought it was a ding. I couldn't for the life of me think how I managed to get it though.
Thanks Ralph. I thought 14mm was big! On a rough measure I got 9mm for the holding bolt spacer so that all makes sense.
On another note, where the cables emerge from the bottom of the bike frame there is quite a thick ridge which means the motor is closer to the ground. Has anyone tried to do anything about removing it? Does it have much of an impact?
The stock were M6 x 12 with a Lockwasher 2mm thick so M6 x 16. I made a typo the difference was only 4mm long for the spacer, not 14mm. This is with the motor flush with the frame no spacers on the drive side (right). If you add spacers to the shaft I assume you need to add that distance for longer bolts. Looks like My 40 tooth needs roughly about a 5mm spacer.to clear the frame.
Thanks for that - reassuring. I have a 46t Lekkie on it which is what is touching. Without that the motor is extremely close but missing. What size are the holding plate bolts?
I had bought a 40t lekke sprocket which looks like it needs quite a bit of spacers, maybe 8 or 10 mm, I haven’t fooled with it yet, I also got a 28t lekke with my kit, for some reason was only s few bucks more, same as stock sprocket size, comes no where close to the frame, I stuck that on and fits fine and I didn’t have to even change the chain since it’s all stock Tooth size
Are you putting on a bigger than stock sprocket? If so it might need more not to hit the frame. on my 2022 marlin 7, I also needed to add a couple 14mm long spacers on the other side and a couple longer socket head bolts to attach the holding plate, guess you could stack washers also instead of cutting a spacer.
I just did a marlin 7 - 2022, the motor was too tight going through The frame between the threads inbetween the crank. I took a carbide bit on a dremel and enlarged middle, I wrap extra main cable around a water bottle holder going up the bottom frame not how Johnny did it, looks cleaner, take off c clips holding cables and use wire ties through c clip bracket whale adding extra cables.
I watched Johnny's Trek Marlin 7 conversion. He tie wrapped lots of wiring outside the down tube.. Why not push it through the down tube with the other wires?
the bafang connectors have connectors on the ends that would make internal routing hard to do. Honestly, Wiring an ebike is the simplest part of building an e-bike. it's easier than hooking up Television or computer equipment, It's all plug and play. The hardest parts are In My Opinion, - Mounting the Battery Properly, Mounting the Motor Properly, Sorting out chainline issues if needed, general bike maintenance, installing the brake and gear shift sensors. But it's so worth it, I got my motor from Johnny 5 weeks ago, and now I have over 400 miles on my e-mtb.
Can I by the BB02B which is 48v and use a 52 volt battery with no modifications?
Do the kits come with a chain ring guard to keep your pants from getting caught in the chain ring?
Not sure why you went under the fork, if you bottom out wont it hit pinch or disconnect the wires? I got some cable ties, put them on loosely before cutting them off to figure out where everything was going, then I did my final tape.
Ok.. I launch today.. Finished my Trek Marlin 7 Bafang BDD02 750W 48V Ebike build. Many thanks to Johnny and his expert advise on youtube AND this forum! I could not have done it without you! a couple things to note.. Cable management was mainly done by wrapping and stuffing up the front fork tube after silicon taping. I went with a Lekkie 36T chain ring which was the same that came off so I could use the same length chain Plus it gave me the proper clearance from my frame!! I am posting some pictures and will get back with the results of my first run!! yeeehaaaa
I used some cable ties but am not that fond of how it pinches the wire and leaves a mark, thats why I went with silicone tape on the front controls
I went with a few small zip ties. The smaller ones are barely noticeable and hold the cables together if placed well. I used trial and error and went through quite a few on the install but the majority ended up on the floor as I wanted as few as practicable on the bike.
ok... which is preferred for cable management.. just plastic ties... split loom or spiral wrap?
They must have downgraded it for 2022, I put on a 4 piston front caliper on the front too, you can always go up with the rotor 180 to 203 if you think you need more brakes. I go at such high speeds I just feel better with more brake, the rear is fine most braking power is not in the rear. I have pictures under my Trek Conversion post
pretty sure Marlin 7 are 160 front if you have a 180 thats not bad.
You can ride your bike in the meantime until your levers come in, the cut off is unnecessary just tie down the plug wires and tape off the ends until the parts come in.
I have a 180 on the front.. but need a 203?
I would highly recommend getting a 203 front Disc there is not enough stopping power with the current rotor, for this e-bike. $10 Shimano Bracket and $35 rotor if you get a Magura, Shimano is out of rotors for the foreseeable future, and Magura is a respected brand.
ok... I have to order ebike hydraulic brakes.. will be another week or 2....
Sure he has some, no standard washer is that thin, you can pick them up on Amazon if you need them quick. The BBSHD are the same as the BBS02 spacers
ok.. the lockring needs 2 spacers. the kit did not come with any.. does Johny have some for sale or do I need to just use regular washers...??
It is designed with the dimple.. not a ding
Great - I see there are 2 dimples in the chain stay. Is the rearmost one a ding or is it original? I ask because it looks the same on my bike but mine has scratches on it and so I thought it was a ding. I couldn't for the life of me think how I managed to get it though.
Bafang arrives tomorrow... I am ready!
OK... I pulled the trigger and ordered the Bafang BBS02B 48V 750W Mid Drive Electric Bike Motor Ebike Conversion Kit with the48T
48V 17.5aH rear rack
and 850C display... from Amazon... will post pics of installation on my Trek Marlin 7... mid Jan...
Thanks Ralph. I thought 14mm was big! On a rough measure I got 9mm for the holding bolt spacer so that all makes sense.
On another note, where the cables emerge from the bottom of the bike frame there is quite a thick ridge which means the motor is closer to the ground. Has anyone tried to do anything about removing it? Does it have much of an impact?
The stock were M6 x 12 with a Lockwasher 2mm thick so M6 x 16. I made a typo the difference was only 4mm long for the spacer, not 14mm. This is with the motor flush with the frame no spacers on the drive side (right). If you add spacers to the shaft I assume you need to add that distance for longer bolts. Looks like My 40 tooth needs roughly about a 5mm spacer.to clear the frame.
Thanks for that - reassuring. I have a 46t Lekkie on it which is what is touching. Without that the motor is extremely close but missing. What size are the holding plate bolts?
I had bought a 40t lekke sprocket which looks like it needs quite a bit of spacers, maybe 8 or 10 mm, I haven’t fooled with it yet, I also got a 28t lekke with my kit, for some reason was only s few bucks more, same as stock sprocket size, comes no where close to the frame, I stuck that on and fits fine and I didn’t have to even change the chain since it’s all stock Tooth size
Are you putting on a bigger than stock sprocket? If so it might need more not to hit the frame. on my 2022 marlin 7, I also needed to add a couple 14mm long spacers on the other side and a couple longer socket head bolts to attach the holding plate, guess you could stack washers also instead of cutting a spacer.
Hi all I've just started a 2021 Marlin 5. I've put 4mm of hub spacers on and it's still not enough. What have others found? Regards from New Zealand
Thanks for the heads up on the crank threads.... Up load some pics if you can!
I just did a marlin 7 - 2022, the motor was too tight going through The frame between the threads inbetween the crank. I took a carbide bit on a dremel and enlarged middle, I wrap extra main cable around a water bottle holder going up the bottom frame not how Johnny did it, looks cleaner, take off c clips holding cables and use wire ties through c clip bracket whale adding extra cables.
I watched Johnny's Trek Marlin 7 conversion. He tie wrapped lots of wiring outside the down tube.. Why not push it through the down tube with the other wires?